USB 3.0 devices arent being recognized on USB 3.0 front port

[Sami 1999]

My USB 3.0 USB HDD and Pen drives don't get recognised when I insert them in front of my PC in the 3.0 port. But inserting a 2.0 Pen drive and keyboard mouse works perfectly.

Even if I insert my 3.0 devices in 2.0 ports, it works.


How can I fix this? Any help is appreciated.

[Fox Mulder]

Your motherboard probably has rear USB 3.0 ports. If so, does plugging your USB 3.0 devices in those ports work?

If yes, then your motherboard's front USB 3.0 is finicky. It could be a case of it having a bad relay (read: the cable that connects it to the chassis) or the front USB 3.0 itself.

If no, then there's a good chance that the system has a corrupt driver, and in the worse case scenario, your motherboard's USB 3.0 controller is borked. Look under your motherboard's UEFI settings to see if you've accidentally disabled USB 3.0 support.

[minitt]

A lot of times it happens because of weak 5v rail.

[Ahnaf_i7X]

Try re-plugging all the cables of ur powersupply from the motherboard and also the cable that leads to the USB header on the chassis

[Sami 1999]

Your motherboard probably has rear USB 3.0 ports. If so, does plugging your USB 3.0 devices in those ports work?

If yes, then your motherboard's front USB 3.0 is finicky. It could be a case of it having a bad relay (read: the cable that connects it to the chassis) or the front USB 3.0 itself.

If no, then there's a good chance that the system has a corrupt driver, and in the worse case scenario, your motherboard's USB 3.0 controller is borked. Look under your motherboard's UEFI settings to see if you've accidentally disabled USB 3.0 support.

Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

Thanks dude.

[Sybaris Caesar]

Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

Thanks dude.

Now kith. 💋

[Sami 1999]

Now kith. 

Ok, lets kiss.

[Ahnaf_i7X]

Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

Thanks dude.

And the day is saved by P̶o̶w̶e̶r̶ ̶P̶u̶f̶f̶ ̶G̶i̶r̶l̶s̶ @Fox Mulder !

[Sami 1999]

Not related to topic, but, how will I activate my Windows 10 if I change my motherboard and HDD? I bought a legit copy and also signed in with my MS Account [later created a local account to avoid inconvenience]. My question is, if I change my hardware and then enter the same Serial key, will it work? Or was it a waste of 11200 tk?

[Fox Mulder]

Just login to your Microsoft Account tied to your licensed Windows 10 copy and it should activate automatically. And you don't really need to buy Windows 10, just sign up as a beta tester, test a few insider builds, then opt out from the fast ring and use a more stable build. That's how I got my licensed copies.

[Swapnil]

Not related to topic, but, how will I activate my Windows 10 if I change my motherboard and HDD? I bought a legit copy and also signed in with my MS Account [later created a local account to avoid inconvenience]. My question is, if I change my hardware and then enter the same Serial key, will it work? Or was it a waste of 11200 tk?

You actually bought windows 10? Even Microsoft does not care if your windows 10 is legit or not. They just want to show you ads.

Anyways, change the motherboard first, keeping the old HDD and booting the old windows 10 installation from it. Then if internet connection is ok, it should reactivate once. You can try running the PC in that state for couple days if you are really paranoid. Then change the HDD and install windows on that with your product key. I can attest that it works because I've changed 3 motherboards and 2 HDDs in the past with this method. Other easier methods like just simply using the same retail product key (won't work if you got scammed and someone sold you an OEM key) when installing in new mobo+HDD might work too, but I can't attest to that.

[Sami 1999]

You actually bought windows 10? Even Microsoft does not care if your windows 10 is legit or not. They just want to show you ads.

Anyways, change the motherboard first, keeping the old HDD and booting the old windows 10 installation from it. Then if internet connection is ok, it should reactivate once. You can try running the PC in that state for couple days if you are really paranoid. Then change the HDD and install windows on that with your product key. I can attest that it works because I've changed 3 motherboards and 2 HDDs in the past with this method. Other easier methods like just simply using the same retail product key (won't work if you got scammed and someone sold you an OEM key) when installing in new mobo+HDD might work too, but I can't attest to that.

Ok thanks.

It seems like if I sign in with my MS account, then my serial key gets linked with my MS account. Only downside is I gotta enter password everytime.

- - - Updated - - -

What do you mean ADs? I never saw any ADs poping up on my PC.

- - - Updated - - -

Just login to your Microsoft Account tied to your licensed Windows 10 copy and it should activate automatically. And you don't really need to buy Windows 10, just sign up as a beta tester, test a few insider builds, then opt out from the fast ring and use a more stable build. That's how I got my licensed copies.

Yeah, signed in with MS account.

[Badhon_raj]

Ok thanks.

It seems like if I sign in with my MS account, then my serial key gets linked with my MS account. Only downside is I gotta enter password everytime.

you can change that in settings > accounts > sign in option.
I use PIN instead.

[Sybaris Caesar]

Or you can do this : https://www.tekrevue.com/tip/skip-wi...-login-screen/