User Tag List

Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: USB 3.0 devices arent being recognized on USB 3.0 front port

  1. #1

    Default USB 3.0 devices arent being recognized on USB 3.0 front port

    My USB 3.0 USB HDD and Pen drives don't get recognised when I insert them in front of my PC in the 3.0 port. But inserting a 2.0 Pen drive and keyboard mouse works perfectly.

    Even if I insert my 3.0 devices in 2.0 ports, it works.


    How can I fix this? Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Member
    • Fox Mulder's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • ASRock Z77M
      • CPU:
      • Core i5 2500K @4.5 GHz
      • RAM:
      • G.Skill ARES 2400 MHz 8GBx2
      • Hard Drive:
      • ADATA SU650 240GB
      • Graphics Card:
      • AMD RX 570 4GB 1300/1750 1.03v
      • Display:
      • Philips 191EL 19" LED
      • Sound Card:
      • Realtek ALC898
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • GAMDIAS Hephaestus P1
      • Keyboard:
      • Corsair K70 RGB
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech B100
      • Power Supply:
      • Thermaltake Smart 650W Modular
      • Optical Drive:
      • Samsung DVD Writer
      • UPS:
      • Spark Power (!) 1200VA
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Build 10162
      • Comment:
      • It gets the job done!
      • ISP:
      • Skylark
      • Download Speed:
      • 5 Mbps
      • Upload Speed:
      • 5 Mbps
    Fox Mulder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    I don't live in a city.
    Posts
    5,411

    Default

    Your motherboard probably has rear USB 3.0 ports. If so, does plugging your USB 3.0 devices in those ports work?

    If yes, then your motherboard's front USB 3.0 is finicky. It could be a case of it having a bad relay (read: the cable that connects it to the chassis) or the front USB 3.0 itself.

    If no, then there's a good chance that the system has a corrupt driver, and in the worse case scenario, your motherboard's USB 3.0 controller is borked. Look under your motherboard's UEFI settings to see if you've accidentally disabled USB 3.0 support.

  3. #3
    Moderator
    • minitt's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus Sabertooth Z170 S
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i7 6700K
      • RAM:
      • Corsair Vengence 3200mhz White Led
      • Hard Drive:
      • Samsung 970 EVO 1TB+ 830 (128GB)+2TB mech HDD
      • Graphics Card:
      • Evga 1080 TI Sc 11GB
      • Display:
      • Samsung KS8000 55"
      • Sound Card:
      • On board
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • Yamaha Reference Monitor
      • Keyboard:
      • Logitech G710+
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum
      • Power Supply:
      • Antec HCG-620M Modular
      • Optical Drive:
      • Nai
      • UPS:
      • dont need 1
      • Operating System:
      • Genuine Windows 10
      • ISP:
      • TELUS optical
      • Download Speed:
      • 75Mbps
      • Upload Speed:
      • 30mbps
    minitt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    dhaka
    Posts
    4,258

    Default

    A lot of times it happens because of weak 5v rail.

  4. #4
    Member
    • Ahnaf_i7X's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • Leaving BG
      • CPU:
      • Leaving BG
      • RAM:
      • Leaving BG
      • Hard Drive:
      • Leaving BG
      • Graphics Card:
      • Leaving BG
      • Display:
      • Leaving BG
      • Sound Card:
      • Leaving BG
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • Leaving BG
      • Keyboard:
      • Leaving BG
      • Mouse:
      • Leaving BG
      • Controller:
      • Leaving BG
      • Power Supply:
      • Leaving BG
      • Optical Drive:
      • Leaving BG
      • USB Devices:
      • Leaving BG
      • UPS:
      • Leaving BG
      • Operating System:
      • Leaving BG
      • Benchmark Scores:
      • Leaving BG
      • Comment:
      • Leaving BG
      • ISP:
      • Leaving BG
      • Download Speed:
      • Leaving BG
      • Upload Speed:
      • Leaving BG
    Ahnaf_i7X's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Leaving BG
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Try re-plugging all the cables of ur powersupply from the motherboard and also the cable that leads to the USB header on the chassis
    Last edited by Ahnaf_i7X; August 31st, 2017 at 13:33.
    Loved by few,
    Hated by many
    But respected by all!!

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fox Mulder View Post
    Your motherboard probably has rear USB 3.0 ports. If so, does plugging your USB 3.0 devices in those ports work?

    If yes, then your motherboard's front USB 3.0 is finicky. It could be a case of it having a bad relay (read: the cable that connects it to the chassis) or the front USB 3.0 itself.

    If no, then there's a good chance that the system has a corrupt driver, and in the worse case scenario, your motherboard's USB 3.0 controller is borked. Look under your motherboard's UEFI settings to see if you've accidentally disabled USB 3.0 support.
    Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

    Thanks dude.

  6. #6
    Member
    • Sybaris Caesar's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Arsenal Gaming B450 Tomahawk
      • CPU:
      • AMD Ryzen 5 3600
      • RAM:
      • Team T-Force Delta RGB 2x8GB 3200CL16
      • Hard Drive:
      • WD Black WD1003FZEX 1TB + Crucial MX500 500GB
      • Graphics Card:
      • Colorful GeForce RTX 2060 6G V2
      • Display:
      • LG 22MP68VQ-P 22" 75hz IPS
      • Sound Card:
      • Onboard Realtek ALC892
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • HyperX Cloud X | iVOOMi iVO-169SUFBT 2.1
      • Keyboard:
      • Fantech MK871 RGB TKL Outemu Blue mechanical keyboard
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech G402 | Logitech G102
      • Controller:
      • Xbox 360 Wireless
      • Power Supply:
      • Cooler Master G550M
      • Optical Drive:
      • Samsung SH222 22x DVD Writer
      • UPS:
      • Orlando 800va(packet e lekha apollo)
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Enterprise x64 1903
      • Upload Speed:
      • ∞
    Sybaris Caesar's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nowy Warsaw
    Posts
    4,291

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sami 1999 View Post
    Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

    Thanks dude.
    Now kith. 💋

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sybaris Caesar View Post
    Now kith. 
    Ok, lets kiss.

  8. #8
    Member
    • Ahnaf_i7X's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • Leaving BG
      • CPU:
      • Leaving BG
      • RAM:
      • Leaving BG
      • Hard Drive:
      • Leaving BG
      • Graphics Card:
      • Leaving BG
      • Display:
      • Leaving BG
      • Sound Card:
      • Leaving BG
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • Leaving BG
      • Keyboard:
      • Leaving BG
      • Mouse:
      • Leaving BG
      • Controller:
      • Leaving BG
      • Power Supply:
      • Leaving BG
      • Optical Drive:
      • Leaving BG
      • USB Devices:
      • Leaving BG
      • UPS:
      • Leaving BG
      • Operating System:
      • Leaving BG
      • Benchmark Scores:
      • Leaving BG
      • Comment:
      • Leaving BG
      • ISP:
      • Leaving BG
      • Download Speed:
      • Leaving BG
      • Upload Speed:
      • Leaving BG
    Ahnaf_i7X's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Leaving BG
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sami 1999 View Post
    Thanks, reinstalling the drivers worked. When I plugged my Pen Drive to rear USB 3.0 port, it didn't work either. Reinstalling the drivers and then restarting PC worked.

    Thanks dude.
    And the day is saved by P̶o̶w̶e̶r̶ ̶P̶u̶f̶f̶ ̶G̶i̶r̶l̶s̶ @Fox Mulder !
    Loved by few,
    Hated by many
    But respected by all!!

  9. #9

    Default

    Not related to topic, but, how will I activate my Windows 10 if I change my motherboard and HDD? I bought a legit copy and also signed in with my MS Account [later created a local account to avoid inconvenience]. My question is, if I change my hardware and then enter the same Serial key, will it work? Or was it a waste of 11200 tk?

  10. #10
    Member
    • Fox Mulder's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • ASRock Z77M
      • CPU:
      • Core i5 2500K @4.5 GHz
      • RAM:
      • G.Skill ARES 2400 MHz 8GBx2
      • Hard Drive:
      • ADATA SU650 240GB
      • Graphics Card:
      • AMD RX 570 4GB 1300/1750 1.03v
      • Display:
      • Philips 191EL 19" LED
      • Sound Card:
      • Realtek ALC898
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • GAMDIAS Hephaestus P1
      • Keyboard:
      • Corsair K70 RGB
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech B100
      • Power Supply:
      • Thermaltake Smart 650W Modular
      • Optical Drive:
      • Samsung DVD Writer
      • UPS:
      • Spark Power (!) 1200VA
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Build 10162
      • Comment:
      • It gets the job done!
      • ISP:
      • Skylark
      • Download Speed:
      • 5 Mbps
      • Upload Speed:
      • 5 Mbps
    Fox Mulder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    I don't live in a city.
    Posts
    5,411

    Default

    Just login to your Microsoft Account tied to your licensed Windows 10 copy and it should activate automatically. And you don't really need to buy Windows 10, just sign up as a beta tester, test a few insider builds, then opt out from the fast ring and use a more stable build. That's how I got my licensed copies.

  11. #11
    Member
    • Swapnil's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus Sabertooth Z77
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.2GHz Turbo
      • RAM:
      • 16 (4x4) GB TwinMOS DDR3 1333MHz
      • Hard Drive:
      • 160GB Hitachi Deskstar 7K160, 1TB WD Caviar Blue
      • Graphics Card:
      • MSI GTX 550-TI
      • Display:
      • 20inch 900p LCD (Samsung SyncMaster P2050)
      • Sound Card:
      • ASUS Xonar Essence STX
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • Shure SRH750DJ / JVC-HAS400B
      • Keyboard:
      • Tt eSPORTS Commander
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
      • Power Supply:
      • Seasonic M12II-750 EVO
      • Optical Drive:
      • Asus DRW-24B3ST crossflashed to LiteON iHAS-524B
      • USB Devices:
      • Do pendrives count?
      • UPS:
      • PowerTree 1250VA
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro 64bit
      • Comment:
      • Old, but works.
      • ISP:
      • Plusnet Inc.
      • Download Speed:
      • 875 kB/s
      • Upload Speed:
      • 875 kB/s
    Swapnil's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Milwaukee
    Posts
    1,304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sami 1999 View Post
    Not related to topic, but, how will I activate my Windows 10 if I change my motherboard and HDD? I bought a legit copy and also signed in with my MS Account [later created a local account to avoid inconvenience]. My question is, if I change my hardware and then enter the same Serial key, will it work? Or was it a waste of 11200 tk?
    You actually bought windows 10? Even Microsoft does not care if your windows 10 is legit or not. They just want to show you ads.

    Anyways, change the motherboard first, keeping the old HDD and booting the old windows 10 installation from it. Then if internet connection is ok, it should reactivate once. You can try running the PC in that state for couple days if you are really paranoid. Then change the HDD and install windows on that with your product key. I can attest that it works because I've changed 3 motherboards and 2 HDDs in the past with this method. Other easier methods like just simply using the same retail product key (won't work if you got scammed and someone sold you an OEM key) when installing in new mobo+HDD might work too, but I can't attest to that.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Swapnil View Post
    You actually bought windows 10? Even Microsoft does not care if your windows 10 is legit or not. They just want to show you ads.

    Anyways, change the motherboard first, keeping the old HDD and booting the old windows 10 installation from it. Then if internet connection is ok, it should reactivate once. You can try running the PC in that state for couple days if you are really paranoid. Then change the HDD and install windows on that with your product key. I can attest that it works because I've changed 3 motherboards and 2 HDDs in the past with this method. Other easier methods like just simply using the same retail product key (won't work if you got scammed and someone sold you an OEM key) when installing in new mobo+HDD might work too, but I can't attest to that.
    Ok thanks.

    It seems like if I sign in with my MS account, then my serial key gets linked with my MS account. Only downside is I gotta enter password everytime.

    - - - Updated - - -

    What do you mean ADs? I never saw any ADs poping up on my PC.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Fox Mulder View Post
    Just login to your Microsoft Account tied to your licensed Windows 10 copy and it should activate automatically. And you don't really need to buy Windows 10, just sign up as a beta tester, test a few insider builds, then opt out from the fast ring and use a more stable build. That's how I got my licensed copies.
    Yeah, signed in with MS account.

  13. #13
    Member
    • Badhon_raj's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • G1.Sniper B6 / B75 D3H
      • CPU:
      • i5 4460 / i5 3470
      • RAM:
      • 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 / 3x4GB corsair XMS
      • Hard Drive:
      • 240GB + 2TB WD Red /120GB + 3TB
      • Graphics Card:
      • R7 370 / RX 570
      • Display:
      • HP 22F / Samsung S22B300B + Assus VZ229
      • Sound Card:
      • on board / Asus Xonar DGX
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • Panasonic RP-HTF600 / Sony MH1c / Sony XB500
      • Keyboard:
      • Logitech MK520 / K350
      • Mouse:
      • M510 / M570 + G400s
      • Controller:
      • Sony DualShock 4
      • Power Supply:
      • Delta 500W / TT ToughPower 500w
      • Optical Drive:
      • DVD RW
      • UPS:
      • Custom Made
      • Operating System:
      • Wind 10 / Win 10 LTSB
      • ISP:
      • Robi
      • Download Speed:
      • 512
      • Upload Speed:
      • 512
    Badhon_raj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dhaka
    Posts
    2,169

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sami 1999 View Post
    Ok thanks.

    It seems like if I sign in with my MS account, then my serial key gets linked with my MS account. Only downside is I gotta enter password everytime.
    you can change that in settings > accounts > sign in option.
    I use PIN instead.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TLF2aPM.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	49.1 KB 
ID:	40158

  14. #14
    Member
    • Sybaris Caesar's Gadgets
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Arsenal Gaming B450 Tomahawk
      • CPU:
      • AMD Ryzen 5 3600
      • RAM:
      • Team T-Force Delta RGB 2x8GB 3200CL16
      • Hard Drive:
      • WD Black WD1003FZEX 1TB + Crucial MX500 500GB
      • Graphics Card:
      • Colorful GeForce RTX 2060 6G V2
      • Display:
      • LG 22MP68VQ-P 22" 75hz IPS
      • Sound Card:
      • Onboard Realtek ALC892
      • Speakers/HPs:
      • HyperX Cloud X | iVOOMi iVO-169SUFBT 2.1
      • Keyboard:
      • Fantech MK871 RGB TKL Outemu Blue mechanical keyboard
      • Mouse:
      • Logitech G402 | Logitech G102
      • Controller:
      • Xbox 360 Wireless
      • Power Supply:
      • Cooler Master G550M
      • Optical Drive:
      • Samsung SH222 22x DVD Writer
      • UPS:
      • Orlando 800va(packet e lekha apollo)
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Enterprise x64 1903
      • Upload Speed:
      • ∞
    Sybaris Caesar's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nowy Warsaw
    Posts
    4,291

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 0.25017 seconds with 14 queries.